All About Mulch

What is the purpose of mulch?

Mulch acts like a protective blanket for the soil and the plants growing in it. It helps conserve moisture, moderate soil temperatures, reduce weeds, and improve the appearance of the landscape. Whether you’re installing new plants or caring for established gardens, mulch is one of the best investments you can make for long-term plant health. It is the frame around the landscape portrait

How to Apply Mulch

Weed the area well before applying mulch. Then spread mulch over the entire planting area. Keep mulch 2-3 inches away from the base of plants to prevent conditions that encourage diseases or attract rodents. Do not form a “mulch volcano” at the bottom of the plant. This practice provides shelter for voles, which feed on bark and can girdle plants entirely, resulting in plant damage or death. Apply mulch 1–3 inches thick depending on the type of plants. One to two inches is usually sufficient for annuals and perennials, while two to three inches works well around trees and shrubs.

Avoid applying mulch deeper than 3–4 inches, as excessive mulch can reduce oxygen movement into the soil and encourage root problems.

Trees and shrubs should be mulched up to, or just beyond the drip line of the plant canopy. Continue to expand the mulched area as plants grow to meet this recommendation.

When to Mulch

The best time to mulch is in spring, after the soil has warmed slightly and weeds have been removed. If you miss the spring window, apply mulch anytime during the growing season to help conserve water through the summer. Mulch can also be applied in late fall to protect plant roots from winter temperature fluctuations.

Benefits of Mulching

· Reduces soil evaporative water losses.

· During winter insulates the ground from freezing and thaw cycles.

· Controls or suppresses weeds.

· Reduces nutrient leaching during heavy rainfall.

· Encourages beneficial soil microorganisms that improve soil structure and nutrient cycling, leading to healthier plants.

· Organic mulches will add nutrients to soil.

Types of Mulches – Natural vs. Synthetic:

Natural Mulches will be more effective for the health of the plant than using synthetic mulches. The following is a list of mulches available.

Natural: Remember that organic mulches decompose at different rates. It will be necessary to replace it after a period.

· Bark – Shredded off trees at a lumber mill. After shredding it is processed into smaller, more uniform pieces and screened, which is easier to spread in the landscape. Bark off different trees have different colors. Our Dark Pine mulch is all natural and is dark brown in color. We also have two other blends available, Premium Hemlock Blend and Black Forest which are color enhanced. The colorants used today are non-toxic, water-based colorants that are safe for landscape use to maintain the reddish or black color lasting longer. Because all our mulches are bark based products they will decompose naturally and will start to darken in color.

· Leaf Mulch – Aged, double ground leaves. A nutrient-rich, dark brown natural product that enhances the health of soils. Great product for smaller sized plants like perennial beds.

· Mad Mics Compost Mulch – It is a mix of horse bedding, which includes pine shavings, manure, hay and grain. Other ingredients include clean ground leaves. Environmentally friendly and nutrient rich dark colored mulch. Use it around all your plantings, especially perennial beds.

· Straw: Stems and stalks of certain grasses used as either a cover crop or the by-product of a food source for animals. The straw is heat-treated to reduce viable weed seeds.

· Salt Marsh Hay: Harvested off salt marshes. Since it is grass that requires marsh-like conditions to survive it should not germinate in your garden. Limited supply and availability.

· Pine Needles: Fresh pine needles are acidic, but once they begin to decompose they have little effect on soil pH. They are an excellent mulch for acid-loving plants such as blueberries, azaleas, and rhododendrons, but they generally do not significantly acidify garden soils.

· Wood Chips: Branches and stems from trees that have been trimmed and put through a chipping machine which are pulverized into small fragments. As wood chips decompose, microorganisms use nitrogen at the soil surface. This rarely affects established trees and shrubs but can temporarily reduce available nitrogen in the uppermost layer of soil if the chips are mixed into the soil.

There are two different forms of mulches sold that are made with wood chips they are Playground Mulch and colored wood chips. Neither has any benefit for the soil.

· Peat Moss: Dredged from bogs. Having the ability to absorb large amounts of moisture. Decomposed peat moss will greatly improve the soil conditions. When it dries out it can form a hard crusty mat. Peat moss is generally better used as a soil amendment than as a surface mulch.

· Cocoa Bean Hull: The by-product from Hershey Pennsylvania. It has a pleasant chocolate aroma. Cocoa bean hull mulch can be toxic to dogs if ingested and should be avoided in areas where pets have access.

· Buckwheat Hulls: Tiny hulls when sprinkled with water they glitter. Be careful where you may apply this mulch because it may blow in the wind, when it is dry. This mulch is best for herbs or perennial gardens.

· Compost: Excellent source of nutrients, however poorly finished compost may contain weed seeds, while properly composted material should contain very few. Excellent soil conditioner and having a dark color will be attractive. I doubt it will minimize the weeds in your garden beds but will add life to your soil. During wet periods may hold onto too much moisture which may be detrimental to your plants.

· Decorative Stone: They are sourced from different areas of the country and have distinctive colors. Decorative stone is long-lasting and attractive but does not improve soil as organic mulches do. Stone absorbs and radiates heat, which can stress some plants during hot weather, particularly shallow-rooted species. It is generally better suited for drought-tolerant landscapes or areas with minimal plantings.

Synthetic:

· Black Plastic: Initially used by vegetable growers has been converted into the home garden and the landscape bed. When used in the landscape it can harm plants by not allowing air and water to penetrate the soil. Most commonly used in commercial vegetable production where crops are replanted annually.. Because it is excellent for conserving moisture and nutrients, warming the soil, and providing weed control. Since it will not decompose in the soil, it must be removed after each crop.

· Landscape Fabric: Where plastic does not allow air or water, landscape fabric will. However, it does become inconvenient when additional plantings are necessary. The landscape fabric must be covered to prevent UV decomposition. It has been ample to minimize weed growth below it but not on top of it. Landscape fabric can reduce many perennial weeds initially, but over time wind-blown soil and organic matter collect on top of the fabric, allowing new weeds to germinate. Fabric works best when combined with a thin layer of mulch and is most effective in areas that won’t be replanted frequently.

Common Mulching Mistakes

· Applying mulch too deeply (more than 3–4 inches)

· Piling mulch against tree trunks (“mulch volcanoes”)

· Using fresh wood chips directly in vegetable gardens

· Allowing mulch to touch stems or crowns of perennials

· Forgetting to refresh as it decomposes 

When should mulch be replaced?

Organic mulch usually needs refreshing every 1–3 years depending on the material and how quickly it decomposes.

Choosing the right mulch depends on your landscape, your plants, and your goals. Organic mulches provide the greatest long-term benefits by improving soil structure, conserving moisture, suppressing weeds, and supporting healthy root systems. When applied correctly, mulch is one of the simplest and most effective ways to improve the health and beauty of any landscape.